How to price fencing jobs
Price a fence by the foot, post and gate. How to count posts, build labor and materials, and a 150-foot wood privacy replacement worked line by line.
Pricing by trade · 11 min read · Updated
The steps, in order
- 1
Walk and sketch the fence line
Measure each straight run, and mark every end, corner and gate on a sketch before you count anything.
- 2
Count posts from the spacing
Divide each run by the post spacing, round up, and add the end, corner and gate posts that fix the layout.
- 3
Plan labor hours line by line
Price tear-out, posts, infill and each gate as separate lines, with your own hours per unit adjusted for the site.
- 4
Take off the materials
Turn posts, rails, pickets, concrete and hardware into what you buy, rounded up to purchase lengths.
- 5
Add job costs, overhead and profit
Add disposal, permit and equipment rental, then overhead for every labor hour and your markup.
- 6
State the line and the site risks
Put the property line, utility locate and rock clause in writing before the first hole is dug.
A fence follows the same equation as any job: price = materials + labor + other job costs + overhead + profit.
What makes fencing different is that a fence is priced by the foot but built by the post. The footage sets the rails and pickets. The layout sets the posts, and the posts, gates and ground are where the job runs long.
This guide shows where your labor hours per unit come from, then prices a 150-foot wood privacy fence replacement from start to finish. Wages and material prices vary by metro and by week, so every dollar figure is yours to fill in.
For the general method, see how to price a construction job. For software built around fence work, see the fencing industry page.
How fence work is measured
Fence work uses three units:
- By the linear foot: old fence removal, rails and pickets, vinyl panels and chain link fabric. Measure each straight run, not just the total.
- By the post: every wood post set in concrete is its own unit of work. Count them from the layout.
- By the gate: each gate is built, hung and latched as one piece.
Note the slope on each run, and whether the top steps or follows the ground. The fence calculator turns a length and spacing into posts, rails and pickets for a quick check.
The formula for a fence price
- Quantity × labor hours per unit = labor hours for that line.
- Labor hours × your full hourly labor cost = labor cost. That is the wage plus labor burden: payroll taxes, workers' compensation and benefits.
- Materials at what you will pay near the job now, with waste added.
- Other job costs: disposal of the old fence, the permit, and any auger or post driver rental.
- Overhead for every labor hour: a year of overhead divided by the hours your crew bills.
- Profit, as a markup on the total cost or a target margin.
The labor rate is the number most often guessed. The labor rate guide and the labor rate calculator build it from your pay, burden and billable hours.
Where your labor hours per unit come from
The hours per unit belong to your crew, so only you can supply them. A published table can't know how fast your crew sets posts or how rocky your ground is. Your own jobs can.
Record hours and quantity, then divide
Job costing is how you get them. On every fence, record the hours each stage took and the quantity it covered, then divide. Use:
- Hours per post
- Hours per linear foot of removal and infill
- Hours per gate
After a few fences you have hours you can price from.
Track every line separately
Keep a separate number for each line, not one rate for "fence":
| Line | Measured in |
|---|---|
| Old fence and post removal | Linear feet |
| Wood post set in concrete | Each |
| Wood rails and pickets | Linear feet |
| Wood gate, built and hung | Each |
| Vinyl panels with their posts | Linear feet |
| Chain link fabric with its posts | Linear feet |
| Staining a fence face | Square feet |
| Cleanup and haul-off | Each |
Removal is heavy, slow work
Count labor hours, not crew hours. Removal takes a large share of the time it takes to build new wood infill. Old posts come out with their concrete, and that is heavy, slow work.
Vinyl and chain link include their posts
Vinyl and chain link are usually tracked with their posts in the same line, so you do not add a wood post line to them. Wood fences carry posts and infill as separate lines.
Posts, gates, corners and site conditions
The footage is the easy part. This is where a fence price holds or slips.
Post spacing sets the post count
Each straight run needs a post at both ends. Inside the run, divide the length by your spacing and round up to get the bays; the line posts are one fewer than the bays.
Ends, corners and gate posts are fixed points, so count them separately and never round them away. A 150-foot fence with two corners and a gate needs more posts than a straight 150-foot run.
Gates are priced each
A gate is built, hung and latched as its own unit, plus two gate posts. Many installers set gate posts deeper or use a heavier post because they carry the swing; if you do, raise that line's hours and material. Take the gate width out of the infill footage.
Rock, roots and slope add hours
Your post hours from normal digging won't cover rock, roots or slope. Rock, big roots, old concrete footings and hard clay can double the time on a hole.
On a slope, stepped panels need more cutting and a racked fence needs adjustment on every bay. Walk the line, probe a few holes if you can, and raise the hours on the post line or add a rock clause.
Locate utilities before digging
Call the utility locate line (811 in the United States) a few business days ahead, and keep the ticket number on the job. Private lines, such as sprinkler pipes and wiring to a shed, are not marked, so ask the homeowner.
The property line is the owner's responsibility
You build where the homeowner shows you. State in the estimate that the owner confirms the line from corner pins or property records.
Many areas also need a building permit for a fence or set height limits, and some neighborhoods need association approval.
Taking off fence materials
Turn each quantity into what you buy, with waste added and rounded up to the purchase unit.
- Posts: one per post on your sketch, long enough for the fence height plus the depth in the ground.
- Concrete and gravel: bags per hole from the hole size.
- Rails: count by the bay, three rails per bay on a 6-foot privacy fence.
- Pickets: divide the infill length by the picket width, then add a few percent for split or crooked boards.
- Gate: frame lumber, pickets, hinges, a latch and a drop rod for a double gate.
- Fasteners: screws or nails by the pound.
Price everything near the job this week.
Worked example: 150 feet of wood privacy fence
Example: A homeowner wants an old wood fence torn out and replaced with a 6-foot wood privacy fence on the same line, posts 8 feet on center. A 4-foot walk gate sits on the left side, 6 feet from the house. The fence runs 150 feet:
- 45 feet along the left side, from the back corner of the house
- 60 feet across the back
- 45 feet up the right side to the house
Count the posts run by run
- House to gate: a 6-foot section, one bay, no line posts.
- Gate to back-left corner: 45 − 6 − 4 = 35 feet. 35 ÷ 8 = 4.4, so 5 bays of 7 feet and 4 line posts.
- Across the back: 60 ÷ 8 = 7.5, so 8 bays of 7.5 feet and 7 line posts.
- Back-right corner to the house: 45 ÷ 8 = 5.6, so 6 bays of 7.5 feet and 5 line posts.
- Fixed posts: 2 end posts at the house, 2 corner posts and 2 gate posts, 6 in all.
Line posts: 4 + 7 + 5 = 16. Total posts: 16 + 6 = 22. Infill runs the full length minus the gate: 150 − 4 = 146 feet in 20 bays.
Labor hours by line
Say your crew's own records show the hours per unit below. They are example inputs to show the arithmetic, not a standard: use your own.
| Task | Quantity | Example hours per unit | Labor hours |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tear out the old fence and posts | 150 lf | 0.2 hours per lf | 30.00 |
| Set 4x4 posts in concrete | 22 | 1 hour each | 22.00 |
| Rails and pickets | 146 lf | 0.4 hours per lf | 58.40 |
| Build and hang the walk gate | 1 | 3 hours each | 3.00 |
| Cleanup and haul-off | 1 | 4 hours each | 4.00 |
| Total | 117.40 |
The check: 30 + 22 + 58.4 + 3 + 4 = 117.4 labor hours. For a two-person crew, that is about 59 hours each, roughly a week and a half with time for concrete to set.
Rock grows the post line
Removal is about a quarter of the job. If this yard has rock, the post line is the one that grows, which is why a rock clause beats a bigger per-foot number.
Materials for the 150-foot fence
From the sketch, with each piece rounded up to what you buy:
- Posts: 22 pressure-treated 4x4s. An 8-foot post leaves 2 feet in the ground under a 6-foot fence; deeper frost or high wind calls for 10-foot posts.
- Concrete and gravel: a 10-inch hole with 24 inches of concrete holds 3.14 × (5 ÷ 12)² × 2 = about 1.09 cubic feet, about 0.92 with the post in it. Divide by the yield printed on the bag, round up per hole and multiply by 22. Add a few inches of gravel under each post for drainage.
- Rails: count by the bay. Every bay here is 8 feet or less, so 20 bays × 3 rails = 60 eight-foot 2x4s.
- Pickets: count from the width. With 5.5-inch pickets butted tight, 146 × 12 ÷ 5.5 = 318.5, so 319, plus 5% for culls: 335.
- Screws: two per picket at each rail, 319 × 3 × 2 = 1,914, plus the rail-to-post fasteners, bought by the box.
- Gate: a 2x4 frame and diagonal brace cut from the gate size, pickets to cover 4 feet (48 ÷ 5.5 = 8.7, so 9), heavy hinges, a latch and screws.
Price each item near the job and add them up. Call the total M.
Building the price
| Line | How to get it |
|---|---|
| Labor | 117.4 hours × your full hourly labor cost |
| Overhead | 117.4 hours × your overhead per billable hour |
| Materials | M, from the takeoff above |
| Disposal | Dumpster or trailer fee for 150 feet of old fence and its post footings |
| Permit and rental | Your local fence permit fee, if one applies, and any auger rental |
| Total cost | The sum of the five lines |
| Price | Total cost × (1 + your markup) |
A 25% markup is a 20% margin; a 20% markup is only about 16.7%. The markup vs margin guide explains the gap, and the job cost calculator adds the lines up.
Check the price per foot
Divide the price by 150 for a price per foot, and compare it with similar fences you have built. If it is far off, find the missing or doubled line.
The same run in vinyl or chain link
Vinyl and chain link carry their posts in the fence line, so the post line drops out. Say your records show 0.5 hours per foot for vinyl and 0.4 for chain link, posts included. Give their prefab gates a line with your own hours.
| Line | Wood privacy | Vinyl privacy | Chain link |
|---|---|---|---|
| Old fence removal, 150 feet | 30.00 | 30.00 | 30.00 |
| Posts, 22 | 22.00 | In the panel line | In the fabric line |
| Fence, 146 feet | 58.40 | 73.00 | 58.40 |
| Walk gate | 3.00 | Its own line | Its own line |
| Cleanup | 4.00 | 4.00 | 4.00 |
| Hours | 117.40 | 107.00 plus gate | 92.40 plus gate |
Leaving the gate out of all three, vinyl saves about 7 hours here (114.40 against 107.00), but panels and posts usually cost more to buy, so the price gap is smaller than the hours suggest. A taller chain link fence needs taller fabric and longer posts.
Common fence pricing mistakes
- Counting posts from total footage. Corners, ends and gates add posts. Count run by run.
- Pricing gates as fence footage. A gate is its own unit with its own posts and hardware.
- Giving tear-out away. Old fence and post removal is a large share of a replacement.
- No rock or roots clause. Write the rule for holes that will not dig before the crew finds one.
- Skipping the utility locate. A cut line costs far more than the wait.
- Building on an unconfirmed line. The owner confirms the property line, in writing.
How to present a fence estimate
- Group the lines into removal, posts, fence and gates, so the homeowner sees what the old fence costs to take out.
- Name the system: height, style, post size and spacing, and which side faces the neighbor.
- State the line and locate: the owner confirms the property line, and you call in the utility locate.
- Add a rock clause with a price per post for holes that need breaking or drilling.
- List exclusions: permits or association approval if the owner handles them, landscaping, sprinkler repair and staining.
- Set the deposit and schedule, often a deposit before the material order and the balance at completion. The progress billing guide covers it.
The deck and fence estimate template lays these sections out, and the deck and fence invoice template bills the deposit and balance. For a one-off, the free estimate generator makes a clean PDF.
Pricing fences with BuildWell
BuildWell builds a fence estimate from a description of the job, such as "tear out 150 feet of old wood fence, new 6-foot wood privacy, posts 8 feet on center, two corners, one 4-foot walk gate." The AI decides what work the job needs and how much; it does not set prices.
BuildWell prices materials at stores near the job and labor at the metro's median wage for each trade, plus your overhead and markup.
You can change any quantity, hour or price, or add a custom line, such as a vinyl gate. The homeowner signs on their phone.
A fence pricing checklist
- Fence line sketched, with each run, end, corner and gate marked
- Posts counted run by run, plus fixed posts
- Infill footage net of gate widths
- Removal priced as its own line
- Rock, roots and slope checked, with a clause in writing
- Utility locate called and property line confirmed by the owner
- Disposal, permit and rental in job costs
- Overhead on every hour, then profit and a per-foot check
Free tools for this guide
Generators, templates, calculators and definitions. No sign-up.
Common questions
01How do I count fence posts?
02Should a gate be priced per foot or per gate?
03Who is responsible for the property line?
04What if I hit rock or big roots?
05Is removing the old fence worth its own line?
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