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How to price deck building jobs

Price a deck from footings to railing. How each part is measured, how to build the labor and materials, and a 12 x 16 attached deck worked line by line.

Pricing by trade · 11 min read · Updated

At a glance

The steps, in order

  1. 1

    Draw the deck before you price it

    Sketch the frame to scale so you can count footings, posts, joists, stringers and railing feet from the drawing.

  2. 2

    Plan labor hours line by line

    Multiply each quantity by your own hours per unit, from each footing to every foot of railing.

  3. 3

    Take off the lumber and hardware

    Turn the frame into boards, hangers, screws and concrete, with waste added and rounded up to the lengths you buy.

  4. 4

    Add permit, inspections and overhead

    Add the permit fee, delivery and disposal, then the job's share of overhead for every labor hour.

  5. 5

    Price the options separately

    Show composite decking or aluminum railing as option lines with their own materials and hours.

  6. 6

    Add profit and check the price

    Mark up the total cost, then divide by the deck area and compare with similar decks you have built.

A deck follows the same equation as any job: price = materials + labor + other job costs + overhead + profit.

What makes decks different: much of the price sits in a structure the client never sees. They see boards and railing. You pay for footings, posts, a flashed ledger, a beam and joists first.

This guide walks through each part, shows where your hours per unit come from, then prices a 12 x 16 foot attached deck start to finish. Lumber and wages vary by metro and by week, so every dollar figure is yours to fill in.

For the general method, see how to price a construction job. For software built around deck work, see the deck building industry page.

How deck work is measured

A deck is measured in three units at once:

  • By the piece: footings, support posts and stair stringers. Count them from a drawing of the frame.
  • By the linear foot: ledger, beam, rim and fascia, stair treads and railing. These follow the outline.
  • By the square foot: joists, decking, skirting and stain. These follow the area.

Some lumber yards quote framing by the board foot: a 16-foot 2x10 is 2 × 10 × 16 ÷ 12 = 26.7 board feet. You need that to read the quote, not to plan labor.

Draw the frame first

Sketch the deck before you count: beam line, posts, joist direction, stair opening and railing sides. The deck calculator gives a quick count for a rectangle.

The formula for a deck price

Every line on a deck estimate follows the same pattern:

  1. Quantity × labor hours per unit = labor hours for that line.
  2. Labor hours × your full hourly labor cost = labor cost. That is the wage plus labor burden: payroll taxes, workers' compensation and benefits.
  3. Materials at what you will pay near the job now, with waste added.
  4. Other job costs: permit, lumber delivery, disposal and any rental, such as an auger.
  5. Overhead for every labor hour: a year of overhead divided by the hours your crew bills.
  6. Profit, as a markup on the total cost or a target margin.

If you don't know your real hourly cost, the labor rate guide and the labor rate calculator build it from your pay, burden and billable hours.

Where your labor hours per unit come from

Only you can supply the hours per unit, because they belong to your crew. A published table can't know how fast your carpenters frame or how hard your digging is. Your own jobs can, and job costing is how you get them.

Record hours and quantity, then divide

On every deck, record the hours each stage took and the quantity it covered, then divide. Count labor hours, not crew hours. After a few decks you have hours you can price from.

Track each line on its own

Keep a separate number for each line, in the unit below, not one rate for "deck":

Line Measured in
Tear-out of an old deck Square feet
Footing dug, formed and poured Each
Support post set on its base Each
Ledger with flashing Linear feet
Built-up beam Linear feet
Joist framing Square feet
Pressure-treated decking Square feet
Composite decking with hidden fasteners Square feet
Rim and fascia Linear feet
Stair stringer Each
Stair treads Linear feet
Wood railing with balusters Linear feet
Aluminum railing panels Linear feet
Cleanup and haul-off Each

Railing can outrun the decking

Watch the railing in your records. Wood railing with balusters is slow per foot, because every post is blocked and bolted and every baluster is cut and fastened.

A deck with railing on three sides and down both sides of the stairs can spend more hours on railing than on decking.

The stringer line is per stringer, not per stair. Count the stringers your stair width needs.

Permits, footings and the decking choice

Two things move a deck price most: what the inspector needs to see, and what the client wants to walk on.

Inspections set the schedule

Most areas require a building permit for an attached deck. Expect a footing inspection before the pour, often a framing inspection before the boards go down, and a final. Put the fee in the price and plan the schedule around the visits.

Code sets footings, height adds work

The beam span and post spacing your local code allows set the footing count, and frost depth sets how deep each hole goes. Height adds work everywhere: longer posts, more risers, and guards.

Under the model residential code most areas adopt, a surface more than 30 inches above grade needs a guard, and a stair with four or more risers needs a handrail. Check your local version.

Price composite as its own line

Composite with hidden fasteners takes more labor per square foot than pressure-treated boards: a clip at every joist, gapping by the maker's rules and a picture-frame border on many decks.

The material line moves even more. Price each as its own line, not as a vague upgrade.

Aluminum railing saves labor

Aluminum panels usually go up faster than wood rails with cut balusters. The panels save labor and cost more to buy, so the two can land closer than clients expect.

Taking off deck materials

Turn each quantity into what you buy, with waste added and rounded up to the lengths your supplier stocks.

  • Concrete: bags per footing from the hole size, plus gravel and a form tube.
  • Posts, ledger and beam: by the piece, in lengths that suit the cuts.
  • Joists: count them from the spacing, then add rim joists and blocking.
  • Decking: count rows, not square feet. Divide the deck depth by the board width plus the gap, round up, and add a spare board or two.
  • Railing: rails by the foot, balusters from the spacing. Most codes stop a 4-inch sphere passing between them.
  • Hardware: hangers, post bases, ledger fasteners, flashing, joist tape and screws by the pound.

Price everything at what you will pay near the job this week. Lumber prices move.

Worked example: a 12 x 16 attached deck

Example: A homeowner wants a pressure-treated deck off the back door: 16 feet along the house, 12 feet deep, 192 square feet, about 3 feet above grade. One 4-foot-wide stair leads down from the front edge, with wood railing.

Count each part from the sketch

  • Ledger and beam: both run the 16-foot width.
  • Footings and posts: a doubled 2x10 beam on 4 posts, about 5 feet 4 inches apart (16 ÷ 3 spaces). Check the spacing against your local span tables.
  • Joists: 16 inches on center across 16 feet is 12 spaces, so 13 joists of 12 feet. The labor line is by area, 192 square feet.
  • Rim and fascia: two 12-foot sides and the 16-foot front, 12 + 16 + 12 = 40 feet.
  • Stairs: a 36-inch rise at about 7.2 inches per riser is 5 risers and 4 treads. A 4-foot stair at 16 inches on center needs 4 stringers. Treads: 4 × 4 feet = 16 linear feet.
  • Railing: 40 feet of edge minus the 4-foot stair opening is 36 feet, plus about 5 feet down each side of the stair. Total 36 + 10 = 46 feet.

Labor hours

Say your crew's own records show the hours per unit below. They are example inputs to show the arithmetic, not a standard: use your own.

Task Quantity Example hours per unit Labor hours
Dig, form and pour footings 4 2 hours each 8.00
Set 6x6 posts 4 1 hour each 4.00
Flash and fasten the ledger 16 lf 0.25 hours per lf 4.00
Build and set the beam 16 lf 0.4 hours per lf 6.40
Frame the joists 192 sq ft 5 hours per 100 sq ft 9.60
Lay pressure-treated decking 192 sq ft 7 hours per 100 sq ft 13.44
Rim and fascia 40 lf 12 hours per 100 lf 4.80
Cut and hang stringers 4 1.5 hours each 6.00
Stair treads 16 lf 20 hours per 100 lf 3.20
Wood railing with balusters 46 lf 0.5 hours per lf 23.00
Cleanup and haul-off 1 4 hours each 4.00
Total 86.44

The check: 8 + 4 + 4 + 6.4 + 9.6 + 13.44 + 4.8 + 6 + 3.2 + 23 + 4 = 86.44 labor hours. For a two-person crew, that is about 43 hours each, a little over a working week, plus inspection waits.

Where the hours go

The hidden structure (footings, posts, ledger, beam and joists) is 32 hours. The railing alone is 23, about 1.7 times the decking. Stringers and treads together are 9.2 hours for a 5-riser stair.

Show composite and aluminum as options

Show each as an option with its own materials:

  • Composite decking: at an example 9 hours per 100 square feet, 192 × 0.09 = 17.28 hours, 3.84 more.
  • Aluminum railing: at an example 0.3 hours per foot, 46 × 0.3 = 13.8 hours, 9.2 fewer.

Materials

From the sketch, with each piece rounded up to the lengths you buy:

  • Footings: say frost depth puts the bottom of each hole 4 feet down, in a 12-inch form tube. Each holds 3.14 × 0.5 × 0.5 × 4 = 3.14 cubic feet of concrete. Divide by the yield printed on the bag and round up, then add 4 form tubes and gravel for the bottom of each hole.
  • Posts: each post is under 2 feet, so one 8-foot 6x6 makes all four, plus 4 post bases and their anchors.
  • Ledger: one 16-foot 2x10, with structural screws or bolts from the fastener maker's spacing chart, and 16 feet of drip cap flashing plus overlap at the joints.
  • Beam: two 16-foot 2x10s, fastened together on the fastener maker's schedule.
  • Joists: thirteen 12-foot 2x8s, a 16-foot front rim and blocking. Hangers: one at each end of each joist, 13 × 2 = 26, plus a tie where each joist crosses the beam, 13. Joist tape for the tops.
  • Decking: 144 inches ÷ about 5.75 inches per row = 25.04, so 26 rows of 16-foot boards plus a spare: 27 boards. Screws: two per board at each joist, 26 × 13 × 2 = 676, bought by the box.
  • Fascia: 40 feet, as two 12-foot boards and a 16-foot board, plus one more for the miters.
  • Stringers: each is under 6 feet, so two 12-foot 2x12s make all four.
  • Treads: two boards per tread, 4 × 2 = 8 pieces of 4 feet. Three come out of each 12-foot board, so 3 boards.
  • Railing: top and bottom rails along 46 feet is 92 feet of 2x4, or twelve 8-foot boards, plus 4x4 rail posts at each corner, each side of the stair and no more than about 6 feet apart. Balusters at 5 inches on center: 46 × 12 ÷ 5 = 110.4, so 111 plus spares.

Price each item near the job and add them up. Call the total M.

Building the price

Line How to get it
Labor 86.44 hours × your full hourly labor cost
Overhead 86.44 hours × your overhead per billable hour
Materials M, from the takeoff above
Permit Your local deck permit fee, with its inspections
Delivery and disposal Lumber delivery and hauling off offcuts
Total cost The sum of the five lines
Price Total cost × (1 + your markup)

A 25% markup is a 20% margin; a 20% markup is only about 16.7%. The markup vs margin guide explains the gap, and the job cost calculator adds the lines up.

Then divide the price by 192 and compare the price per square foot with similar decks. If it is far off, find the missing or doubled line.

Common deck pricing mistakes

  • One price per square foot for every deck. Height, stairs and railing change the labor more than area does.
  • Undercounting the structure. On this deck, footings through joists are about 37% of the hours.
  • Treating a stair as one line. Each stringer is its own piece of work.
  • Pricing composite as an upgrade fee. It changes the boards, fasteners and labor. Give it its own line.
  • Ignoring inspection waits. Days lost waiting for a footing inspection cost you.
  • Using last month's lumber prices. Re-price every estimate and give it an expiration date.

How to present a deck estimate

  • Group the lines into foundation, framing, decking, stairs and railing, so the client sees what the hidden structure costs.
  • Name the materials: board type and color, railing style and the ledger flashing.
  • Show options as separate lines, such as composite decking or aluminum railing.
  • State who pulls the permit and that the schedule depends on inspection dates.
  • List exclusions: siding repair beyond the ledger, utility moves, landscaping, staining and lighting.
  • Set the deposit and payments, often a deposit before the lumber order and a payment after the framing inspection. The progress billing guide covers the setup, and an added stair belongs on a change order.
  • State your workmanship warranty and the board manufacturer's.

The deck and fence estimate template lays these sections out, and the deck and fence invoice template bills the deposit and balance. For a one-off, the free estimate generator makes a clean PDF.

Pricing decks with BuildWell

BuildWell builds a deck estimate from a description of the job, such as "12 by 16 attached deck, 3 feet up, pressure-treated boards, wood railing, one 4-foot stair." The AI decides what work the job needs and how much; it does not set prices.

BuildWell prices materials at stores near the job and labor at the metro's median wage for each trade, plus your overhead and markup.

You can change any quantity, hour or price, or add composite as its own line. The client signs on their phone.

A deck pricing checklist

  • A sketch with beam, posts, joist direction, stairs and railing sides
  • Footings counted from the beam span and local code
  • Ledger, beam, rim and railing in linear feet
  • Joists by area, decking counted by rows
  • Stringers counted one by one
  • Permit, inspections, delivery and disposal
  • Options as separate lines
  • Overhead on every hour, then profit and a per-square-foot check

Common questions

01Should I price a deck by the square foot?
Use a per-square-foot number as a check, not as the price. Two decks of the same size can differ by a set of stairs, twenty feet of railing and a foot of height, and all of that is labor. Build the price line by line, then divide by the area and compare.
02How much more labor does composite decking take than pressure-treated?
More per square foot, because hidden fasteners mean a clip at every joist and more care at the ends and the picture frame. Take the difference from composite decks you have tracked. The bigger change is usually the material cost, so price both as separate lines and let the client choose.
03Who pulls the deck permit, me or the homeowner?
In many places the contractor doing the work pulls it, and some areas require that. Check your local rule. Either way, put the permit fee in the price or on its own line, and say in the estimate who schedules the inspections and who needs to be on site for them.
04How do I price a deck on a slope or a second story?
Height changes almost every line. Posts get longer, footings may go deeper, stairs need more stringers and treads, and the crew works off ladders or staging. Raise the quantities from your drawing, raise the hours on the framing and railing lines, and note why on the estimate.
05What should a deck estimate exclude?
State anything you saw and are not pricing. Common exclusions are siding repair at the ledger beyond the flashing, moving utilities or downspouts, landscaping repair, staining new pressure-treated wood before it dries, and lighting or electrical work. Exclusions in writing prevent arguments on the last day.
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